Taipei 101

A beginner’s guide to the Taiwanese capital.

“You’re better off in Hong Kong or Seoul! Why would you want to go to Taipei?” I was frequently asked as I planned my trip to the Taiwanese capital. Before the K-Pop craze hit Bangkok, there was F4, the phenomenal Taiwanese boy band, followed by a string of made-in-Taiwan TV series. Yet, this small, tech-savvy island is rarely on the tourist map. Poor public relations, perhaps. And, at first glance, Taipei does look drab. The city, just like Bangkok, is busy, polluted and ugly, filled with hordes of industrial buildings. But dig deep and you will find that this underrated destination actually, offers a vibrant mix of Chinese heritage, modern urbanity, spiritual traditions, as well as delicious cuisine.

The View from Above

Rising 508 meters above the ground, Taipei 101 (Hsin Yi Rd., Xinyi. Open daily 10am-10pm. http://www.taipei-101.com.tw/) is the world’s tallest building. The lower floors of this earthquake-resistant, 101-story skyscraper are home to a shopping mall, brand name stores, restaurants and offices. But for the sweeping panoramic views of the city, you have to buy a ticket (NT$400, B414) at a booth on the fifth floor. Then the world’s fastest elevator, running at 1,010 meters a minute, will zip you to the indoor observatory on the 89th floor within a mere 37 seconds.

Treasure Trove

Sino-philes, the National Palace Museum (221 Chih-shan Rd., Shih-lin, +886-2-2881-2021. http://www.npm.gov.tw/. Open daily 9am-5pm. Admission fee NT$160 (B166) is reason enough for you to visit Taipei. The museum, hailed as the Louvre of Asia, holds arguably the world’s largest collection of Chinese artifacts—roughly 620,000 pieces brought to Taiwan by Nationalists fleeing the communists during the Cultural Revolution. The display rotates once every three months as only 15,000 pieces can be exhibited at a time. Visiting the museum quarterly, it would still take you 12 years to see all its items; yeah, it’s that huge. But the world-famous highlights are the Jadeite Cabbage and the Meat-shaped Stone, made opaque jasper it’s from carved into a delicious-looking slow-braised pork belly.

Love Orbit

Standing in the Zhongshan distict, Miramar Entertainment Park (20 Jingye Third Rd., Neihu, +886-2-2175-3456) looks like your typical shopping mall except there’s a giant ferris wheel perched on its rooftop. A backdrop to several romantic Taiwanese series, the 100-meter tall attraction is a popular first date spot for starry-eyed teen couples. It is especially packed on the Chinese Valentine’s Day, which falls on the 7th -day of the 7th - lunar month of the Chinese calendar.

Religious Retreats

Taipei is abundant with Buddhist, Taoist and Chinese temples. One of the most revered places of worship is the 271-year-old Longshan Temple in Wanhua district, which houses hundred of statues of deities. Go further out of town to Nantou County and you’ll find Chung Tai Chan Monastery (2 Chung Tai Rd. http://www.ctworld.org/). With its avant-garde structure designed by famed Taiwanese architect Li Tsu-Yuan, this colossal monastery appears more like a high-end hotel than a center for Zen Buddhism.

Teen Town

Though nicknamed the Harajuku of Taipei, Ximending (Zhonghua Rd. MRT Ximen) doesn’t quite yet equate to its Japanese counterpart. But this trendy neighborhood does attracts lots of young locals and tourists alike with its numerous shops and stores selling fashionable clothes, accessories and makeup. On weekends, this bustling street is also a gathering spot for street dancers and young girls clad in cosplay costumes.

Oh My Gaudi!

The setting alone is reason enough to visit Five Cent Driftwood House (8 Neihu Rd., +866-2-8501-1472). You can’t help but notice this attention-grabbing, massive restaurant with gigantic sculptures of two indigenous girls dancing as the focal point. It is the work of female artist/entrepreneur Li-hsiang Hsieh who dreamt up this Gaudi-inspired building from scraps of driftwood, iron, stone and clay. It serves beautifully-presented Taiwanese cuisine with an emphasis on seafood and local veggies and fruits. Don’t forget your camera.

After-Hours Reads

What do Taipei-ers do at night? They read. Well, at least at the Dunhua branch of Eslite Bookstore (245 Dunhua South Rd. Open daily 24 hours. http://www.eslite.com/), which stays open around the clock. With over 30 outlets across Taiwan, the leading bookstore chain stocks a large and eclectic selection of Chinese and English-language volumes. The bookstore also includes a music store, a gallery and a café, rolling out refreshments and late-night caffeine fixes.

Night Bargains

There’s no better place to mingle with the locals than at Shilin Night Market. Conveniently located nearby MRT Jiantan station, the sprawling night market runs from dusk till about midnight. It’s chock-a-block with clothes, shoes, accessories, snacks and local eats. The popular staple of the night market is the notorious stinky tofu, served deep-fried drizzled with sauce. But be warned, its formidably, strong odor, which hits you from miles away, is not for the faint-hearted. For something more refreshing, get yourself a “frog egg” drink, Taiwan’s very own cha nom khai mook (iced tea with tapioca balls).

____________________________________________________________________

Essentials

Where to stay

Located within a walking distance from Miramar Entertainment Park, Grand Victoria Hotel (168 Jing Ye 4th Rd., +886-2-8502-0000. http://www.grandvictoria.com.tw/) fuses modern designs with Victorian elements. It’s equipped with an outdoor swimming pool and a nice garden. Rates range from NT$7,500 (B7,765) for a Boutique room to NT$12,500 (B12,935) for a suite.

Built by Chiang Kai-shek and his wife Soong May-ling, the five-star Grand Hotel (1 Chung Shan N Rd., Sec 4, +886-2-2886-8888. http://www.grand-hotel.org/) resembles a traditional Chinese palace with dragon motif, dominant red hues and elaborate tiled roof. A historic landmark itself, the 490-room hotel has an underground secret passage, a 180-meter tunnel leading to the nearby Chientan Park. Rates start from NT$4,000 (B4,140) for a Budget room.

Getting There

EVA Air (http://www.evaair.com/), Taiwan’s premier airlines, operates direct flights from Bangkok to Taipei daily. Rates start from B5,500, exclusive of taxes and surcharges.
For a budget option, Air Asia X (http://www.airasia.com/) recently started flying to Taipei daily. If you’re fast enough, rates start from as low as B1,290, exclusive of taxes.

http://xblong.blogspot.com/
http://colour-paint.blogspot.com/

http://bkmagazine.com/feature/taipei-101